For fun, my husband challenged our children and their grandfather to a contest of who could grow the most vegetables in their respective areas in our yard.

Caring for plants and raising children

So gardening became our family bonding activity. It feels good to be planting side by side and rejoicing when our labor bear fruit. We harvested okra, spinach, lettuce, talinum, spinach, and other vegetables and herbs.

So if you want your children to eat lots of vegetables, convince them to plant them. They will even like to eat vegetables that they have raised themselves. Above all, they will learn more patience, perseverance, and be responsible for growing vegetables than from our sermons. You cannot rush a plant to grow immediately. You need to take care of it and give it time each day, just like the rest of our life plans.

Seed of hope

For others, planting is just a hobby. For others, it is important to have a source of food. For the hardships of life, just one day without income, their family will starve. But when you have vegetables in your yard, somehow, you definitely have something to eat.

This is the story of mothers in Barangay Botocan in Quezon City. Because of the pandemic, they lost their jobs, or their husbands lost their income. No salary, no savings, and no way to earn because of lockdown. “My wife and I are thinking, how are we going to eat?” concern Edelwina Bumacod.

Because the distribution of relief goods is only temporary and not a long-term solution, the Food Security Task Force of the Quezon City government decided to visit the community in Brgy. Botocan and distribute free seed starter kits, as part of #GrowQC’s urban farming and food security program.

The seed starter kits include seeds of various vegetables, pots, and other planting materials that are enough to turn the previously vacant lot full of garbage into a vegetable garden. It is here at the new Villa Berde Food Forest Farm that the whole community gets food.

It is now a model of a successful urban community farm. It provides not only food to the community, but dignity and hope to each planter. It is also a testament to what everyone can do together.

“I told them, one for all, all for one. We are facing the pandemic together today, and we are also working together on what we can help, ”Villa Berde president Juvy Bado said in an interview.

The green revolution

An important part of #GrowQC is Joy of Urban Farming started by Mayor Joy Belmonte ten years ago. He has always established it to help poor communities have access to food. Previously, little attention was paid to urban agriculture. It even took a pandemic to wake everyone up to the fact that we have no food security or certainty when it comes to the source of our food.

When ports and national roads closed during the lockdown, mothers immediately rushed to supermarkets and markets. We were afraid of having nothing to eat and surprised at the sudden rise in commodity prices.

Even though the food supply has returned to normal, the price of vegetables is very high! P180 a kilo of onion – more expensive than a kilo of chicken! It’s very easy to spend P1,000 on one go to the market, even if you don’t buy meat or fish.

So people are now looking for a way to grow vegetables in any space they can find: roofs, balconies, and even bottles of soft drinks hanging on the wall. In the past, we thought we needed a garden to grow plants. Now, any place where a plant can be nurtured can be a garden.

Plant, plant, plant!

One of the priorities of the Department of Agriculture (DA) is food security. Its Plant, Plant, Plant program encourages planting vegetables in gardens

DA Secretary William Dar added, “Even if we say there are enough vegetables or supplies from the provinces, if possible, we should also plant in Metro Manila, in every household. There are new technologies that can now be used by Metro Manila residents, and we are helping in the distribution of seeds and seedlings. ”

The DA has partnered with the Department of Agrarian Reform and the local government for the Buhay sa Gulay project to help poor communities grow vegetables, even those in cities or urban areas.

For example, the community of St. John’s Parish in Tondo planted a football field and they harvested it in January. This parish covers 80,000 individuals in 17 nearby barangays.

The same project was also launched in other cities. Caloocan Mayor Oca Malapitan has set aside 1.5 hectares to grow vegetables. Belmonte, on the other hand, has set aside seven hectares in Quezon City which is expected to be the largest urban farm in Metro Manila.

To encourage more people to engage in urban agriculture, Quezon City also offers tax exemptions to residents who are willing to use vacant lands or idle lands for urban farming (for more information, email growqc@ quezoncity.gov.ph).

Plant hope

Finally, urban farming has also been given the attention it deserves, and I hope it will remain a permanent part of the New Normal. This is a very simple but concrete contribution to the fight against food security. By planting, the family is fed, helps the country, and takes care of the environment.

For me, planting is also a symbol of hope. It is fun and inspiring to see fruits and vegetables grow, even in a chaotic city. It says in the movie Jurassic Park: “Life will find a way.” As the mothers in Botocan showed, it is affordable if together.  Source: Philstar

See Also:

• Growing Grapes in the Philippines
• Latexless Jackfruit Farming: How to Plant and Grow Langka Na Walang Dagta
• Can you Grow Bananas in Hydroponics?
• Hydroponics Tent: Growing Cannabis in Hydroponic
• Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important?

The post Urban Farming: How can it help your Family and Community? appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

How to grow or propagate fruiting grape branches?

• Move the vine on the stake to the trellis. Each week the grape shoots grow one foot (1 foot.) Long.
• Tie the straw tightly to the stake and loosen the rope on the grape stalk so that it does not get choked.
• When the vine reaches the trunk, pinch the stalk to make many branches.
• Continue to pinch the end every span or foot to re-branch two (2) or three (3) vines. Always pinch the end of the long stem to increase the fruit-bearing vine until the vine grows and has a pencil size branch that bears fruit.

Grape Fertilization

The grapes grew and grew fast, especially the roots of the green seeds that we call miracle grapes. It can be fruitful in just four (4) months.

Before planting, apply triple 14 by ten tablespoons (10 tbsp.) Of sedimentary (basal) fertilizer to the bottom of the hole whose size is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2. Cover the compost with 1 foot of soil mixed with organic and chaff with viscous soil.

• Before planting the grapes, put a stake on the surface so that the grapes can crawl up.
• One week after planting, start applying fertilizer to be repeated every month.
• Mix one part (1) of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) and two (2) parts of Triple 14 of microelements.
• With the rod make a hole four (4) inches deep which is a span from the tree.
• In every four (4) holes with a span away from the tree put a tablespoon of manure or manure mixture and cover with soil.
• Repeat the application of fertilizer after one month. As it grows gradually add fertilizer. Place the hole in the fertilizer container away from the tree and change the hole in the fertilizer container.
• Put a tablespoon of the fertilizer mixture in the hole. Six (6) holes can be made one span away from the tree after 3 months that the grapes are in the trellis.
• If fruiting and a lot of ga-pencil vines put pure triple 14 with micro-elements a month before fruiting.

Irrigation and Weeding

• Water the grapes every second day to make them grow faster. Do not water the tree. Enough when the soil is wet.
• Keep the bottom of the vineyard free of weeds so as not to deprive the nutrients of the fertilizer applied to the grapes.

Pests and Diseases of Grapes

The worm that is one of the grape pests rarely attacks. The beetle and moth attack if the leaves are dusty in the months of April, May, and June.

You can wash the dust on the leaf part with a hose to prevent it from being infested by mites. If the leaf is attacked by a moth and seems to have rust on the leaves, the drug Miticide can be sprayed.

Sickness is a problem in the rainy season while in the summer there is no pain in the grapes.

Mold (mildew) and smallpox (anthracnose) are common diseases of grapes during the rainy season.

To prevent this disease, transparent plastic is placed on the surface of the vineyard (greenhouse) to prevent rain. Plastic from the compost sack can also be used.

Make a bamboo frame to hold the plastic. The distance between the vine trellis is one (1) meter to two (2) meters so that the leaves do not burn in the heat of the sun.

If there is no plastic roof (greenhouse), you can spray systemic fungicide to treat mold and smallpox. Spray weekly during the rainy season.

Grape Fruiting

Of all the plants, the grape is the most obedient plant that can be produced at any time according to the grower’s wishes and when he wants to harvest grapes.

From the pruning of the vine, ninety (90) days will be counted before the red cardinal grapes ripen. Green grapes and black (black ribier grapes) will count 115 days from pruning before the fruit ripens. .

So if you want to harvest grapes on your birthday, just count 90 days for red cardinal grapes and 115 days for green and black grapes variety. And before the day of harvest comes pruning.

Sixteen (16) week-old green grapes can be fertile if they are cared for normally.

If modified pruning is used no more leaves will be removed or removed. Just prune the elongated vine and remove the stalk at the end of the vine pruning.

In general pruning before fertilizing, first, apply triple 14 with microelements. Make 10 holes around the tree and place 20 spoons in each hole around the tree one to two feet away from the tree. Do this one (1) month before pruning.

Cut the parent vine to the size of a pencil so that all that remains is the fruit bud.

Prune the twigs until only two (2) buds are left, this is for the vine to grow and bear fruit after a few months.

In general pruning, all the leaves are removed and the tree is always watered so that the eyes or buds that bear fruit can continue.

Spray growth hormone (auxin) to increase flowering. Usually, in the Philippines, grapes bloom only at the end of the pruned vine. So to increase the number of flower buds, spray growth hormone.

If the flower buds have sprouted, apply fertilizer 17-0-17. Depending on the number of flowers to be placed. If there are 10 healthy flowers, place 20 tablespoons of 17-0-17 in fifteen (15) holes of the spike with a distance of 1 ½ ft from the tree. When the flower is in full bloom and wants to be seedless or seedless, spray or soak the flower in 50 ppm gibberellin. Do it only once. The seeds of green, red, and black grapes will be lost but the fruit or berries will shrink to the size of imported flame-red seedless grapes.

The green variety is what makes raisins like Thompson seedless very sweet. This is what people were looking for and loved who still visited my vineyard in Bongabon, Nueva Ecija in the 70s.

If you want the imported varieties to be even sweeter, add 17-0-17 and 0-0-60 two months before the grapes ripen. For every 10 kilograms of fruit, place 1 kilogram of 17-0-17 and 0-0-60.

Popular grape varieties farmed in the Philippines are red cardinal, catawba, Brazilian medium, and others.

See Also:

• Latexless Jackfruit Farming: How to Plant and Grow Langka Na Walang Dagta
• Can you Grow Bananas in Hydroponics?
• Hydroponics Tent: Growing Cannabis in Hydroponic
• Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important?
• How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics

The post Growing Grapes in the Philippines appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

Apart from the millions of jackfruit trees in the world – – the latexless jackfruit is the only jackfruit seed that when the fruit is opened has no resin (latex) to stick to the hand and knife. Even more amazing when you taste the orange crumb that is so sweet. Very delicious dessert. Also, the fiber between the pulp is orange and sweet so it is also edible and nothing is thrown away.

Ripe jackfruit is usually resinous and yellow in color. There are also seeds that are not sweet and have little pulp-edible flesh). So many do not want to plant because there are no good seed crops. Besides, jackfruit seeds take six to eight years to bear fruit. If the joint will take 4 – 5 years to bear fruit from planting.

For more than a decade now, the only unique seed without sap has come from Malaysia, brought by a Malaysian who married a Filipina. In Malaysia, this step is called Chee Kong. But it is not propagated by asexual propagation so that the characteristics of the new crops are the same as the original tree without the resin and the orange color is crunchy and very sweet.

Latexless jackfruit seeds were planted because it is difficult to attach jackfruit even to natives. So since Chee Kong jackfruit has spread the seeds of the fruit of many crops, the fruit has had resin, the pulp has also turned yellow and the type of fruit is not as sweet as the original orange color.

According to pomologists or experts in fruit trees around the world, the propagation of high-quality seeds is done by attaching a branch of a fruit tree (scion) to a seedling native from a seed. If seeds are used, the new tree may be different from the original tree and other seeds. Moreover, the process of creating a new seed from seeds is time-consuming and will count for years because the seeds will still bear fruit and then select a tree that will bear good fruit for several years.

Propagation of Jackfruit Without Resin

To ensure that the fruit of the jackfruit to be planted is free of resin and has a very sweet pulp, the method should be to join the branches from the original Chong Kee mother tree. The leaf of the latexes jackfruit is quite round and wide when attached and if it comes from the seed it becomes oblong and narrow which means that it is a different seed and not the original one, there will be resin and the pulp will turn yellow.

Sprout native jackfruit and if one and a half feet it attaches to the parent end of the branch (scion). Make double rootstock for faster growth, resistance to phytophthora root rot, and fruitful.

Planting Jackfruit

Jackfruit sprouts easily so anywhere in the yard or in the field you can see one by one jackfruit trees. To make it easy to grow and bear fruit for 2 years, the step without resin should be planted.

Plant in a sunny place. Jackfruit can be substituted for guyabano, Davao pomelo,  coffee, and lanzones. Dig two feet wide and 2 feet deep. Mix organic fertilizer with the topsoil and if the soil is sticky, mix it with a sack of chaff to make it porous. Apply basal or sedimentary fertilizer to the bottom of the hole with 20 tablespoons of match fertilizer for the root to bend and the branches to grow. Cover the hole with good soil and plant jackfruit on top.

Fertilizer Application

Apply 16 – 20 – 0 (75 %) and ammonium sulfate 25 % every three months to speed up growth. In the first application of manure is a span away from the tree of the manure hole. Make four holes around the tree, using a sharp rod 2-4 inches deep. Add a tablespoon of compost mixture to each hole. In the second or third month, do not put fertilizer in the old hole so as not to hurt the root. As it grows, more and more fertilizer should be applied and away from the tree.

When fertilizing, complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with micronutrients is applied to make it bear fruit. Chee Kong can bear fruit after 2 years and if attached to the native it is four years before it bears fruit.

Add 17-0-17 if there are flowers or buds to make the fruit grow and sweeten. Chee Kong is already sweet but the fruit grows even bigger when paired with 17-0-17.

How do you know if jackfruit is ripe? The skin color of the fruit will change from green to yellow and there will be an odor.

Pest Control

In order for the fruit to continue and no longer need pesticides, the fruit should be wrapped in a sack when it is still in its infancy to prevent pest infestation.

By Dr. Bernardo O. Dizon

See Also:

• Can you Grow Bananas in Hydroponics?
• Hydroponics Tent: Growing Cannabis in Hydroponic
• Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important?
• How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics
• Aquaponics and Hydroponics

The post Latexless Jackfruit Farming: How to Plant and Grow Langka Na Walang Dagta appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

The breed is not currently recognized in Italy but has been under review by the Technical Committee of the Italian Federation of Poultry Associations in the hope of preserving the breed and developing a breed standard.

Characteristics

The Mugellese is a small breed of chicken (a true bantam. It has a simple 4 to 6 point crest. The earlobes can be red or white, the latter being preferred by breeders. The average weight of the Roosters is 0.8 kg (1.8 lb), while hens can weigh 0.7 kg (1.5 lb) Eggs are small and ivory-white.

The most common colors are dark gold (partridge) and gold neck. The fur is white and the legs are pale or flesh-colored.

Breed temperament

The Mugellese are an active and lively breed. Although they are small, roosters are very aggressive towards other roosters. Chickens are good mothers and can sit to hatch most of the year. The birds are robust and resistant to heat and cold and can be kept in the open all year round. If allowed, they perch in the trees. Their egg production is moderate (less than 100 eggs per year)

History

This breed of poultry was widespread until the middle of the 20th century in some Tuscan localities, particularly in Mugello (Florence), an area from which it also inherited the name.

The Mugellese is a traditional Tuscan chicken breed of uncertain origin. It was once kept extensively not only in the Tuscan countryside but also in the gardens or on the balconies of townhouses, perhaps as a pet.

In recovery

It was traditional for grandparents to give a pair of Mugelleses to a child who had reached an age to care for them. Once very common, they became rare in the second half of the 20th century; now it is in a phase of recovery, selection, and improvement.

Breed recognition

In early 2012, the Mugellese was not officially recognized by the Italian Federation of Poultry Associations but was under consideration. An exposure draft had been prepared but had not yet been approved.

Conclusion

The little Mugellese, who once inhabited the Tuscan farms and known to everyone, became a relic breed, survived by chance and rudeness in some isolated areas and in houses of fans of the breed, where tradition and love for this cute animal made him resist changing them.

See Also:

• Padovana Chicken: Breed Characteristics, Origin, Habitat, and More
• What is Polverara Chicken Breed
• What is Robusta Lionata Chicken Breed
• What is Robusta Maculata Chicken Breed
• What is Romagnola Chicken Breed

The post Mugellese Chicken: Breed Characteristics, Origin, Habitat, and More appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

Characteristics

The main characteristic of this breed of chicken is its peculiar crest; Roosters have a long, curved crest, while hens have a shorter, rounded crest.  The earlobes are small, whitish, and completely covered by the crest. The average weight is 1.8 to 2.3 kg (4.0–5.1 lb) for roosters, and 1.5 to 2.0 kg (3.3–4.4 lb) for hens.

Breed varieties

Nine varieties of colors have been recognized for Padovana, of which six are recognized and documented in older treatises, these are white, black, silver, gold, buff, and “hawk”. The skin is white and the legs are slate or black.

Egg production

Today, Padovana is supported by the abundant eggs it produces, as well as its excellent meat. Padovana hens produce around 120-150 white eggs each year, weighing 50-60g, but they are rarely hatched. A bantam version is also available for this breed.

Origin and history

The origin of the breed is still uncertain, but most historians agree that the Padovana made its first appearance around the year 1300, when the astronomer and philosopher Giovanni Dondi dell Orologio, while in Poland, noticed a peculiar characteristic and beautiful in the hens of the locality, and I do not hesitate to take some specimens to the Padova region in Italy.

This theory was confirmed by many writers of the past (such as Teodoro Pascal), however, the journalist from Padova Franco Holzer in one of his investigations was able to establish that there is no documentation that certifies that Giovanni Dondi dell Orologio has visited Poland.

Another hypothesis of the origin of the breed indicates that the chickens would have arrived in the Padova region in the form of viaticum along with pilgrims from Eastern Europe, who were going to holy places of Christianity in Italy.

Historical notes also provide evidence of tufted birds in Europe in Roman times: the two marble figurines of tufted chickens observed in the Sala degli Animali (“animal room”) of the Vatican Museums in 1927 by Alessandro Ghigi date from the 19th century. I or II AD; a chicken skull excavated from West Hill, Uley, Gloucestershire in England shows the typical brain herniation of tufted breeds and dates from the fourth century.

Recently Franco Holzer discovered the first known representation of a hen with a tuft in Padova: it is a painting that dates from 1397 and is present in the Oratory of San Michele Arcangelo in Padova.

On the brink of extinction

In the 21st century, the breed numbers remain low. A study published in 2007 revealed a figure of approximately 1200 breeders, of which approximately 300 were roosters.

Additional data

The Padovana is described and illustrated as a Patavina hen, or Paduan hen, by Ulisse Aldrovandi in the second part of his work on ornithology, Ornithologiae tomus alter cum indice copiosissimo varyum linguarum (Bologna, 1600).

See Also:

• What is Polverara Chicken Breed
• What is Robusta Lionata Chicken Breed
• What is Robusta Maculata Chicken Breed
• What is Romagnola Chicken Breed
• What is Siciliana Chicken Breed

The post Padovana Chicken: Breed Characteristics, Origin, Habitat, and More appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

Black Sigatoka and Panama disease (Fusarium) wipe out banana plantations, pollute the soil, and spread rapidly between production areas.

This is not a new phenomenon with banana cultivation. In the 1950s, the monoculture of one of the first widely grown commercial crops, Gros Michel, was wiped out by banana pathogens, leading to the development of the Cavendish variety, then resistant to Fusarium.

However, as we all know, pathogens have an incredible ability to evolve and mutate, new strains of Fusarium have been developed and are threatening the banana industry once again.

Ninety-five percent of the bananas consumed in North America come from the Cavendish crop and are therefore susceptible to new strains of Fusarium, and since bananas are the fourth most consumed food crop and an important staple for millions of people in the tropics, we need to find ways to overcome these disease threats is of global importance.

While the improvement of crop plants with resistance to both pathogens may be promising, the continued development of new disease strains is an ongoing possibility.

Banana greenhouse

As Fusarium is a soil-borne pathogen, soilless banana production has attracted increasing interest in traditional and non-traditional banana production areas.

Bananas have been grown in greenhouses for decades, however, production has been limited to subtropical areas with large greenhouse crops established in the Canary Islands and Morocco.

These are largely grown on the ground, using greenhouses to modify the environment with a higher daytime temperature, protection against sunburn, wind, and hail, providing higher yields. More recently, hydroponic greenhouse bananas have been successfully grown in the Netherlands using coir and rock wool substrates to avoid the risk of aggressive pathogenic fungi.

Advantages of growing bananas in hydroponics

Hydroponic banana production, especially in greenhouses, can have some important advantages: the main objective is the prevention of plant losses and the intensive use of agrochemicals to control fungal pathogens. Yields increase in a protected climate and with the ideal application of water and nutrients.

Although production costs are higher than those of traditional open-air plantations, consumers may be willing to pay for unsprayed, locally produced fruit that has not been shipped long distances to markets. There are also several other banana productions that may attract local markets and result in less dependence on the Cavendish variety.

Banana cultivation in hydroponics

One of the main concerns of hydroponic banana production is the size of the mature plants. Cavendish is a tall variety and can grow over 5-6 meters tall with a 2.5-meter span, however, a greenhouse banana industry would be better focused on growing smaller dwarf fruit varieties such as Dwarf Cavendish, Grande Naine, Lady Finger, Orito, Williams, Poyo, Dwarf Red or Dwarf Apple: many of them are between 2 and 3 meters tall. Grande Naine and Dwarf Cavendish are the most commonly grown greenhouse crops and perform well in hydroponics and soil-based systems.

Hydroponic systems for bananas must take into account the high demand for water and nutrients. Drip irrigation is most commonly used with daily water consumption of 10 liters per plant in winter and 20 liters per plant in summer and is reported for greenhouse crops.

Large vats/pots of at least 60 centimeters deep or deep beds of a suitable growing medium are recommended, both to provide sufficient volume for the large and extensive root system that develops, and to provide stability to the plant, as heavy plant loads can tip over when transported with a big load of fruit. Although dwarf plants are a bit more compact than taller ones, some type of staking or plant support may be needed. Suitable substrates include coir, rock wool, perlite, and combinations thereof.

The banana-growing environment requires warm and humid conditions. Plants are sensitive to frost and although cooler nights may not be too damaging, daytime temperatures should not drop below 16 ° C. Optimal temperatures are between 25-32 ° C, however, they are tolerated in warmer conditions, provided sufficient water is provided.

Bananas are widely propagated from sprouts, however, tissue-grown seedlings are another method that prevents disease transmission from one crop to another. Bananas are not trees but are tall, herbaceous, and short-lived perennial monocots. The leaves are wide and overlapping, forming a kind of thick trunk.

The rhizomes are formed around the base of the plant, from which the shoots develop, these are cut and used for the production of the next crop.

Commercial banana varieties develop fruits without the need for pollination, the clusters or clusters of fruits contain “hands” of fruits made up of several individual “fingers”. Many cultivars produce at least 60 fruits in a single bloom.

Fruit production takes approximately 16 to 18 months from planting to harvest, after which the main stem of the plant dies and is removed and replanted with new shoots. Bananas are unresponsive during the day and a crop that is planted in succession for many months can produce fruit throughout the year, provided sufficient heat is provided.

Bananas do not require a lot of maintenance during the production phase: removing the extra shoots that form around the base of the plant helps to direct the nutrients and assimilate them in the flowering/development of the fruit. Some flower/cluster pruning can be done depending on the cultivar; this includes removing the large secondary bloom at the base of the bunch, as well as removing some berries to encourage larger fruit size on the remaining hands.

Nutrition in hydroponics

Banana plants are heavy consumers with a particularly high need for potassium during the fruit development stages. The absorption of macronutrients is carried out in the following order: Potassium (K)> Nitrogen (N)> Calcium (Ca)> Magnesium (Mg)> Phosphorus (P). For trace elements, the order of absorption is Manganese (Mn)> Iron (Fe)> Boron (B)> Zinc (Zn)> Copper (Cu). Bananas under ideal growing conditions can be produced with an EC nutrient in the range of 1.6 to 1.8 and a pH of 5.5 to 5.8.

Nutrient formulations for banana crops are slightly different from many other plants: the need for potassium is high throughout the production cycle and commercial plantations should use custom recipes for optimal plant growth and fruit quality. . A typical banana formulation would contain the following levels of elements (in EC 1.6): N = 148ppm, P = 20ppm, K = 454ppm, Mg = 48ppm, Ca = 70ppm, Fe = 5ppm, Mn = 3ppm, Zn = 0, 60ppm , B = 0.70 ppm, Cu = 0.10 ppm, Mo = 0.10 ppm.

The recommended nutrient levels in banana leaves can be used to diagnose any deficiency symptoms and act as a guide for hydroponic nutrient formulations for this crop.

Although leaf levels are useful in determining nutrient requirements, in high-fruiting crops such as bananas, a significant amount of absorbed potassium is incorporated into the fruit tissue and this should be taken into account during the development stage of Fruit.

The recommended leaf nutrient levels for bananas are:

N: 2.4-3.0%
P: 0.25-0.24%
K: 2.7–3.5%
Ca: 0.4-1.0%
Mg: 0.20-0.36%
Fe: 60 – 80 ppm
Mn: 25 -150 ppm
Zn: 15-18 ppm
Cu 5 – 9 ppm
B: 11 ppm

Bananas, particularly dwarf varieties, are a promising cash crop for greenhouse and hydroponic production, however, the more compact types also make excellent houseplants and specimens for indoor gardens. The ease of propagation, attractive tropical-looking foliage, and the possibility of fresh bananas are just an added bonus.

See Also:

• Hydroponics Tent: Growing Cannabis in Hydroponic
• Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important?
• How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics
• Aquaponics and Hydroponics
• Cauliflower Farming: How to Plant and Grow Cauliflower for Profit

The post Can you Grow Bananas in Hydroponics? appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

However, with such diverse technologies on the market, we thought it would be interesting to investigate the topic of hydroponically grown cannabis in more detail.

The biggest challenges of growing hydroponics in tents

Size restrictions on growing tents can make hydroponic growing difficult. For starters, growers often prefer to design grow rooms around specific size tables. With the limited sizes of grow tents available, the ability to “build a room around a table” was lost.

Every tent grower must face the challenge of installing growing equipment within the narrow confines of a tent. When it comes to hydroponics, adding trays, pumps, hoses, timers, and reservoirs can seem like an impossible task.

Because tents are such tight spaces, small environmental problems can quickly turn into big ones. Hydraulic components like nutrient reservoirs and irrigation pump only increase heat and humidity levels.

Different options of hydroponic systems for growing in shops

Since concerns about crop size in hydroponic plants remain valid, most of the time, different water systems can reveal some opportunities for success.

Hydraulic tables

Hydraulic tables are the most popular hydroponic setup on the market. With these systems, cannabis plants are grown in substrates and baskets that are placed directly on a table. A timer, pump and hose system work together to flood the table periodically throughout the day.

Due to their size, some tables do not have a good crop or cultivation option. They only take up more square meters than the necessary per plant, but they are also practically impossible to work in the fields. Finally, as groundwater is added to our reservoirs, they present problems such as humidity levels.

Dutch cubes

The “Dutch buckets” are melts or containers that grow with hydro-recirculation or waste drainage systems. Like Dutch buckets, grow a single plant inside a small cup of growing medium. Each ship has its own miniature capture/storage system. When water is pumped into individual pots, it drains or melts and circulates the rest of the system.

Dutch buckets are an interesting option for growing hydroponic huts. Not only does it take up less square footage than tables, but it is also easily customizable. You can buy Dutch buckets of different sizes, as well as place your plants to facilitate your work.

Like hydraulic tables, Dutch buckets require a reservoir to pump nutrient-rich water. However, you can equip your Dutch cube system as the main warehouse of your store. By doing this, you keep excess moisture out of the tent, while reducing the dangers of power and water outages.

Soil drip

Soil drip systems merge traditional farming with hydroponics. However, unlike buckets and Dutch water tables, soil drip systems do not circulate water out of plants after they are watered. In essence, these setups pump water from a reservoir, which then “drips” directly onto the root of a plant.

Soil drip systems are an interesting option for growing hydroponic tents. You can get dirt containers in almost any size or shape, as well as organize them in a way that makes sense in your store. Also, as these settings can be used to supplement manual watering, you can experiment with drip systems before relying on them.

Dutch buckets, soil drip systems require a reservoir. However, you can place the bin outside the store to reduce humidity, etc.

As most experienced farmers know, growing cannabis indoors requires much more than experience. In fact, the best in-house farmers are also experts in regulating greenhouse environments. To this end, growing indoors also requires a fundamental knowledge of growing technology and garden design. Based on current knowledge, it appears that Dutch buckets and soil drip systems are legitimate options for carp farming.

Before you start setting up a hydroponic tent, there are some additional considerations to make. For starters, LED lights are highly recommended for growing tents. Not only do they emit less heat than HPS lamps, but they also don’t require bulky cooling equipment. Second, to control humidity levels and reduce electrical hazards, you should make an effort to locate your bin outside of the store. This will likely require a specific tent model.

Follow these parameters and you can produce an amazing hydroponic cannabis plant with the help of a grow tent.

See Also:

• Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important?
• How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics
• Aquaponics and Hydroponics
• Cauliflower Farming: How to Plant and Grow Cauliflower for Profit
• Rambutan Farming: How to Plant and Grow Rambutan for Profit

The post Hydroponics Tent: Growing Cannabis in Hydroponic appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

When we talk about strategic planning for the start-up of a hydroponic project, we should not only think about the investments to implement this project.

For example, when we think of greenhouses, hydroponic profiles with benches, electrical panel and other components, hydraulics, screens with automatic or manual activation, types of plastic, earthworks, construction of wells, expansion of electrical load, generator, paving, masonry (house pump, consumable house, nutrient house, office), computers, printers and, above all, transport and packaging vehicle, so we are planning future investment management. This point deserves to be highlighted given the need for investment programming and human resources directed to it.

On the other hand, it is important to highlight the need to have sufficient conditions and resources to guarantee that the direct and indirect costs of production are “covered” at least in the three months after the investment is made.

Thus, we highlight some important costs (fixed and variable; direct and indirect) to be programmed, such as the acquisition of inputs (substrates, fertilizers, seeds, among others); costs with water, electricity, labor and charges, packaging, annual fees to the state, accounting, administrative expenses (office), consulting fees, transportation expenses (fuel and tolls) and vehicle maintenance, staff food, equipment personal protection (PPE), in addition to the costs of promoting your brand, with the use, for example, of promoters and commercials at the points of sale.

It is important to note that greenhouse maintenance (plastic exchange with unpredictable weather), electrical and hydraulic network maintenance, hydroponic system maintenance, equipment maintenance (pumps, timers), material accidents or problems with employees, and accidents. with labor are indirect costs that need to be planned for.

Those who have invested in a hydroponic project through financing still have interest and fees to pay during their productive life.

Note that when we detail some costs and, when we associate with the other amounts invested, adding to these the costs with depreciation, defined as the replacement cost of the goods, after their useful life or replacement due to technological lag, we can think about price and benefit.

Through the above, we reach a very important discussion threshold in strategic planning, which is the “formation” of the price of your product.

By definition, the composition of the value of a product can be subdivided into an objective part (inherent costs of production or production cost) and a subjective part, the degree of satisfaction with the consumption of the brand linked to the product, for example, and that the difference between the cost and the sale is your profit.

Briefly, the objective of this article was to highlight the real need to survey all the variables necessary for the production of a hydroponic product and that the success of the company is linked to how assertive the entrepreneur is in this planning.

We hope we have contributed this information to your success in completing your hydroponics project.

See Also:

• How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics
• Aquaponics and Hydroponics
• Cauliflower Farming: How to Plant and Grow Cauliflower for Profit
• Rambutan Farming: How to Plant and Grow Rambutan for Profit
• Baguio Beans Farming: How to Plant and Grow Green Beans for Profit

The post Hydroponics Plan: Why Planning is Important? appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

Hence, more and more people are interested in growing their own food at home.

But how to do this, if we do not have land to grow our vegetables?

That is why it is a viable option to combine the cultivation of vegetables in hydroponics using water from fish farming as a nutrient medium; So this system known as aquaponics does not require large spaces and can be done at home in patios, garages, roofs, and even balconies.

Imagine, being able to grow your own lettuce, tomatoes, or cucumbers on your balcony!

Of course, starting an aquaponic culture at home requires a basic knowledge of the technique, for which we should document ourselves; however, once the system is established and balanced, the operation is simple and can be carried out by the members of the family themselves.

It just takes a little investment, imagination, and of course…. the desire to do so.

Advantages of aquaponics at home

• The advantages of growing our vegetables at home using aquaponics are numerous, including:
• Low cost and recyclable materials can be used.
• It requires little space.
• Design and construction are simple.
• Obtaining food in a permanent and timely manner, suitable for family consumption.
• Plants and animals are easily harvested.
• No fungicides, pesticides, growth hormones, or antibiotics are used.
• It can be operated by women, young people, or the elderly.

Why grow lettuce in aquaponics?

Lettuce is one of the vegetables most used in aquaponics, and it has certain qualities that make it suitable for growing at home; as they are:

• Low nutrient requirements in cultivation.
• It grows quickly, being able to consume its leaves in three weeks.
• It adapts well to growing in hydroponics.
• It does not require a lot of sunlight.
• It has a short root system, so they can be grown close to each other.

What do we need to grow lettuce in aquaponics?

The elements necessary for an aquaponic culture vary depending on the system used and the dimensions of available space; but in general, the following materials and equipment are required:

Materials

• Container for fish
• Hydroponic bed
• Lettuce seeds or seedlings
• Fish fingerlings

Equipment

• Air pump
• Mechanical filter
• Biofilter
• Water Pump
• Water supply lines

Container for fish

Practically any container can be used at home to keep our fish, from a fish tank, bathtub, to a tank; in fact, they can be made of different materials such as plastic, glass, or metal and have variable shapes and sizes. In the Philippines, a plastic barrel is recommended.

In the same way, we must remember that the volume of the tank will depend on the amount of fish to house; and this, in turn, will depend on the number of plants we want to grow, which we will review later.

Hydroponic beds

Lettuce, like other green leafy vegetables, can be grown in three different types of hydroponic systems:

• Floating root system.
• Medium beds
• NFT system

In such a way that the choice of each one will depend on the budget that is available and the space available.

Selection of lettuce seedlings

Normally the transplants in your aquaponic installation are carried out with the plants already germinated and grown as seedlings that can be bought in nurseries; You can also plan the sowing and germination in seedbeds yourself.

It is important to choose healthy seedlings, of good size and with 2-3 leaves to be transplanted to the hydroponic system.

Air pump

It is necessary to supply oxygen to the fish to avoid mortality; but in addition, a decrease in oxygen can lead to a decrease in pH, which can cause stress in plants.

Also, depending on the size of the fish container, it can be an aquarium aerator or a small aeration pump in tanks of approximately 1,000 liters of water; with at least two air injection lines in the tank and one in the biofilter.

Mechanical filter

The function of this filter is to remove heavy solid waste such as feces and food remains, coming from the fish tank; in order to prevent them from reaching the roots of the plants, where they can cause suffocation of the roots.

For this purpose, it is located after the fish tank or tank and can be made using a 200 L drum; to then layer different filter materials such as:

• Sponges of different pore sizes
• Porous stones
• Activated carbon

Biofilter

After the mechanical filter, the biological filter or biofilter is placed, whose function is to house the bacteria responsible for the conversion of harmful ammonia; especially the one coming from the fish tank in nutritious nitrates for the plants.

To make a homemade biofilter you can use a plastic container with a capacity of 20-25 L, in which low-cost materials are placed such as:

• Polypropylene plastic caps
• Pieces of a corrugated hose
• Pieces of pottery, etc

Water Pump

This is practically the heart of the system since it keeps the water circulating from the biofilter to the plants; so it can be a submersible pump that is placed inside the biofilter, or in a subsequent tank known as a sump.

Water supply lines

These are smaller PVC pipes that water travels through, from fish tanks to plants; and vice versa.

Equipment to monitor water quality

Regardless of the size of your aquaponic system, it is vital to monitor pH, oxygen, temperature, and nitrates at least once a week; so measurement kits or equipment are required that can be easily found in aquarium stores.

What should we check before starting the crop?

Choose the site

The site chosen for the installation of the aquaponic system should take into consideration the following:

• Have enough space for growing fish and plants.
• Have good lighting for at least 6 hours; if the system is placed indoors it can be achieved with white light lamps.
• Protection against rain, wind, or frost; if it is carried out outside, the construction of a greenhouse may be required.
• Locate a nearby electrical outlet for pumping, aeration, etc. equipment.
• Secure a nearby water intake and drain.

It should be noted that if drinking water is used, it must be aired at least 48 hours before introducing it into your aquaponic installation; to remove its chlorine content.

Choose what type of system to use

In the case of hydroponic lettuce, the most common is the NFT system; For this, tubes or gutters with lids are used through which a thin film of water from the fish tank is made to run.

Said pipes have holes where the plants are placed in containers with the substrate, leaving their roots suspended, which are put in contact with the film of the circulating solution; later, the water is collected in a reservoir or returned to the fish tank.

It should be noted that one of the benefits of this system is that the pipes can be arranged in many patterns to make better use of space; You can also make use of vertical space, walls, fences, or balconies.

Also, the construction of this system can be done with materials found in the home, or with commercial products with specifications and design.

In this sense, as a reference, the designs proposed by FAO for a family aquaponic unit on a 6 m2 surface can be used, using a 1000 L tank; for an estimated annual production of 20 kg of fish and 150 kg of vegetables.

Choose the species of fish

In some home aquaponics systems, plant culture is the highest priority, and fish are often not consumed; That is why they are used as a natural source of nutrients for plants or as ornamentation.

However, if you want to use a fish for consumption, a good candidate for the tropics is tilapia (Oreochromis sp.); In fact, it is the most used in aquaponic systems with lettuce, since it has qualities such as:

• Rapid growth rate.
• Adaptability to high population densities and resistance.
• It accepts a wide range of temperatures between 20 and 30 ºC.

However, if you want to use ornamental fish, some options are:

• Goldfish (Carassius auratus).
• Guppy (Poecilia reticulata).
• Swordfish “aquarium” (Xiphorus helleri).
• Scalars (Pterophyllum scalare).
• Mollys (Poecilia).

Define the number of fish and plants

The fish and plants in the aquaponic system have to be in an optimal proportion since if there are few fish, few nutrients are generated for the plants; On the contrary, if there are much fish the capacity of the biofilter to transform ammonia into nutrients that can be used by plants is reduced.

Ideally, start with a few fish, a recommended ratio is 1: 2, that is, one fish for every two plants.

For example, a family-level aquaponics system should start with a small facility with few fish; in order to learn the basic management of aquaponics and then expand it if you want to produce more fish and more plants.

Fish size

An adequate weight of fish to start aquaponic culture is 25 to 50 grams since small fish require more food (in the percentage of biomass) than large ones; so there will be a good proportion of nutrients in the water that will be used by the plants.

Similarly, when the fish grow, the total biomass will increase and more food will be added to the fish, so the growing area of ​​the plants can be increased.

Calculate the volume of water in tanks

Once the number of fish is established, the volume of water in the tank to be used can be better defined.

A recommended density is 500 grams of fish per 50 liters of water; that is, if you have 10 fish with an average weight of 50 grams, you will need a container with a capacity for about 50 liters of water.

But be careful to start with a low density of fish to start; and when the handling is controlled gradually increase the number of fish.

Putting the system into operation

Installation of bacteria in the system

Once you have the fish container with water, but no fish and the hydroponic system installed, but no plants; then the submersible pump must be turned on and kept in operation for 4-6 weeks so that the bacteria colonize your entire installation.

In such a way that these bacteria will be responsible for converting the nitrites produced by the fish into usable nitrates for the plants.

To speed up the process, the fish feed can be added to the fish tank (without fish) to act as a substrate for nitrification.

Introduce the fish first

After a few weeks with the pump running, it is time to introduce the fish.

The fish we buy come in bags with different water than our tank, so they must be acclimatized beforehand; For this, the bag where the fish come from is placed, unopened, inside the tank and left like that for 30-45 minutes to equalize the temperatures.

Then, add a little water from the tank inside the bag, wait 15 minutes, and repeat this operation up to 3 times; finally, the fish are released into the tank.

Introduce the plants

Lettuce seedlings are carefully transplanted into leaky containers with a certain type of substrate that will support the roots.

Afterward, these containers with the seedlings are placed in the holes of the channels of the NFT system; and thus leave the suspended roots in contact with the water coming from the fish.

System maintenance

• Feed your fish
• Fish should be fed a quality diet daily, preferably balanced or flake feed.

It is also advisable to offer food to the fish two or three times a day, noting that there is no food left in the tank after five minutes; to avoid overfeeding.

It has already been indicated that the amount of food depends on the cultivation surface of the plants, but a guideline may be to give about 15 grams of food daily for about 10 fish of 50 g each; therefore this is equivalent to feeding them with 3% of the total biomass, which is recommended for growing fish.

Maintain pH levels

Lettuces require a pH of around 6.5 – 7.0 for the proper development of the plant; however, in aquaponics, the pH tends to drop due to the action of bacteria and the metabolism of the fish.

So, it is important to measure the pH of the water with some frequency, at least once a week; For which there are very simple tests to use and that are available in many stores related to the maintenance of swimming pools or aquariums.

For example, to raise the pH, small amounts (3 g / 100 L) of calcium hydroxide or potassium bicarbonate diluted in water are added to the tank; and thus obtain the desired pH value.

Measurement of temperature, oxygen, and nitrates

Other parameters that must be measured with some frequency in the fish tank are:

• Temperature: measure once a week, keep between 18 and 30 ° C.
• Oxygen: maintain 5-6 milligrams of oxygen per liter of water or 5-6 ppm (parts per million), through aeration.
• Nitrates: measure every 15 days, maintain an interval between 40 and 80-100 ppm making water changes to reach high levels.

Aquarium shops have tests with which these three parameters can easily be measured.

Other routine operations for your aquaponic facility

• Replenish the water level in the tanks due to evaporation and evapotranspiration losses.
• Eliminate the remains of solids that are deposited at the bottom of the tank or filters.
• Clean biofilters (if you have them).
• Check the flow rates to verify that the water is flowing well between the tank and the hydroponic culture.
• Check your plants for signs of deficiencies or disease.

As you may have seen, growing lettuce at home using aquaponics requires some initial design and construction work; but once installed, it only takes a little time to care.

And best of all, you can harvest your lettuces when you really need them, being a healthy and sustainable option for your family.

See Also:

• Aquaponics and Hydroponics
• Cauliflower Farming: How to Plant and Grow Cauliflower for Profit
• Rambutan Farming: How to Plant and Grow Rambutan for Profit
• Baguio Beans Farming: How to Plant and Grow Green Beans for Profit
• Sigarilyas Farming: How to Plant and Grow Winged Bean for Profit

The post How to Make a Homemade Aquaponics and Grow Lettuce in Your Backyard appeared first on Agriculture Guide.

If you are looking to learn how to plant and grow cauliflower even in your backyard garden, continue reading this “paano magtanim ng cauliflower” guide.

When cauliflower should be planted?

Cauliflower is grown between January to May, with April being the ideal month for its cultivation. However, it all depends on the climate of the area in which we are. It is a plant somewhat sensitive to frost. It needs temperatures between 15-22ºC to develop.

What type of soil is needed by the cauliflower?

You need well-drained and porous soil. The substrate must be rich in nitrogen and potassium. Acidic soils do not suit the vegetable.

How to plant cauliflower?

Growing cauliflower from seed is not recommended due to the time it needs to grow. The ideal is to cut a stem from a harvested cauliflower.

However, if we grow them in seeds we will have to:

• Plant 3 or 4 seeds in a seedbed or directly in the ground.
• Cover it with soil no more than twice its size, between 2-3 cm.
• It germinates between 4-20 days, depending on the temperature and the sun.
• When you have 3 true leaves, we will have the plant.

If we plant the cauliflower in the stem we will have to:

• The planting is recommended to carry out at about 60 x 70 cm.
• It needs plenty of water for its growth.
• And also a lot of hoeing work. The stems are covered with compost mulch.

Can cauliflower be planted in pots?

Yes. For this, we need a container with a capacity of at least 22 liters.

Watering

• Cauliflower mostly needs constant humidity.
• Cauliflower watering in the garden should be frequent.

When to harvest cauliflower?

• Cauliflowers take 6 to 8 months to develop.
• They are collected when the mass or pellet is white.
• If it has brownish spots or separate inflorescences it means that it is old.
• These parts could be consumed, but are routinely discarded.

Cauliflower can be planted with the following vegetables

• Celery and thyme: keep the cabbage fly away.
• Lettuce and spinach: protect crucifers from fleas.
• Mint: increases the production of cabbages.
• Peas or beans: provide nitrogen to the soil.

Pests on cauliflower

• Cabbage fly
• Cabbage caterpillar
• Leaf miner
• Slugs and snails
• Aphid
• Weevil
• Bug
• And among the most frequent diseases are mildew, powdery mildew, and white rust

Additional information on cauliflower

Cauliflower gives off a strong odor when cooked in water. To avoid this, we can add a piece of stale bread or a splash of milk to the cooking. Cauliflower can also be eaten raw, even its leaves can also be used.

More vegetable planting guides

See Also:

• Rambutan Farming: How to Plant and Grow Rambutan for Profit
• Baguio Beans Farming: How to Plant and Grow Green Beans for Profit
• Sigarilyas Farming: How to Plant and Grow Winged Bean for Profit
• How to Plant and Grow Siling Labuyo
• Pagtatanim ng Sibuyas: How to Farm and Grow Onions for Profit

The post Cauliflower Farming: How to Plant and Grow Cauliflower for Profit appeared first on Agriculture Guide.